T H E B U T L E R

It seems like at least once a week I can’t find my keys, or my wallet, or …, so I decided to make something in an attempt to resolve this little predicament. I’ve always disliked having all my on the go items just laying around, so having a wall mounted piece keeps things up, away and organized.

The Butler is made of solid walnut and several layers of baltic birch.

When not in use, the walnut slides closed and hides the charging wire within.

The backside of the walnut is routed out for the charging cord and a pocket is routed out of the backside to allow for the additional charging cord and extension cord head so that the piece can be mounted up high on the a wall possibly.

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mickRib

mmmm ribs…..

I’ve been working on the mickRib for sometime now. It’s crazy how much time you can put in to something so small and simple looking. I originally got the idea for this lamp from this circular shape I saw that had some random curves in its shape. After doodling for a couple months I decided on the scale and base and worked on my first template.

It took me some time to decide how to make the piece. I went back and forth between potentially bending, joining at the curves, and possibly making the interior all one solid piece. After a couple different trials, I eventually decided to make it with ply that was joined together but with small gaps between each piece to let the light out and accent the light in an interesting way.

Making identical replicas is a little tricky when there are so many curves in such a tight area with such thin material. My first attempts on the router table were a little sketchy with the bit wanting to grab the piece at certain points. After a few runs, I was able to make an initial mockup, but decided it would be best to find a better,safer way to make the next round. This is a pic of my dads hand. I told him about my experience so he came over to experience the sketchiness.

This is the setup I built to keep the routing a lot simpler and safer and it works great. I cut the ribs out, leaving an 1/8″ of meat, attach the piece to the 3/4″ template and place it in this jig.

The next challenge was to get the lighting fixture into the neck as clean and simple as possible. I decided to run it up the 1/4″ gap in the neck and relieve a small section on two opposing rib pieces for the head of the fixture.

Some finishing touches  to get the bulb and fixturing just right and she’s ready for a photo shoot.

I really like the lighting that this bulb gives off, it nicely accents the wood and gives ample light to the room without being too in your face and distracting.

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Diamond splinters

I was at the jeweler a few months back looking at rings. I’m pretty good at picking out stuff for Christina, but rings seem a little more difficult to pin down.
I get to pick out everything for our house so I kinda felt like this should really be something Christina should decide upon. That got me thinking about the wood ring, a sort of pre-engagement ring so I can still have the surprise of a ring but also let her decide the real engagement ring.

Chewbacca worked day and night on this little thing. He’s still a puppy but he’s got a good work ethic.

The ring is made of laminated maple and walnut with an engraved diamond on top. About 8 coats of oil and it was ready for the test.

I made a couple other rings in the process of trying to find what would look best with the diamond, so I gave those to her first as an anniversary present and to throw her off in case she had figured it out already

Simple maple

Maple and Walnut

She was surprised!!

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New Belomo pics

I just got a few new pics of the Belomo sideboard. Thanks Long!

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San Diego Home and Garden

Starting this year off great with a write up in San Diego Home and Garden.



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Concrete Firepit

I recently got to mix things up a bit and work with some concrete. I had a few different designs in steel and concrete and ultimately this simple cube was chosen as an addition for backyard entertaining.

They really like wood burning fires, so I thought it would be interesting to make a linear wood burning firepit. The linear trend seems to be pretty popular these days, but I haven’t seen too much in the way of wood burning. I formed the pit and created a nice rectangular interior that was big enough for logs but still kept things fairly tight and linear.

They decided to go with a light brown concrete to match the color of the existing walks. Once the concrete was set, I removed the forms and steel trowelled the faces for a nice smooth finish.

In order to achieve the linear fire with logs, I wanted to add a stand that would make things easy to get the logs situated. I came up with this triangular stainless design and it seems to hold the pieces up nicely while also adding an interesting detail.

I also added a stainless steel top for the winter months. I put a drain in the bottom as well but figured it would be nice to to have it covered and not have to worry about it for the rainy months.

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Pin-up

The pin-up is an idea I got from the desk top pin screen. I thought it would be nice to have a versatile hanging option where you could fit things of different sizes and when not in use, the pins could recess into the wall and go away.

I started out with a smaller mockup version to see how the pins would work. Once I had a scaled piece, I had an easier time trying to figure out how the pins were going to move freely in and out.

The first challenge came with trying to find the right size/type of dowels and forstner drill bit that would give enough room for movement but the least amount of play when extended out completely. I ended up with 1/2″ birch dowels and I attached washers to the ends to act as a stop.

After playing with a few different ideas on moving the dowels in and out, I decided to have a movable back board stop that is attached to one of dowel at each side. When the pins are pushed in, you just pull the two side pins and the pins come back out to full extension. I added rollers to the bottom of the back board stop so that it glides easily in and out.

The other challenge was the recessed feature. Walls with drywall or plaster are usually 4″ – 4 1/4″ deep and the stud bays are typically 14 1/2″ wide with most studs being installed 16″ on center. With these constraints in mind, I wanted to maximize the length of the pins while still having them become nearly flush when pushed in.

After some trial and error, I ended up with a thicker face plate of solid walnut and a 4″ dowel that provides a good hanging area for a lot of different things. I really like the recessed part of this piece, but I know for many cutting drywall or plaster is not an option. So I think I’ll end up making another surface mounted option. I want to try out a couple more things before I add this to the shop but it’s working good in the guest bedroom.

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cocktails + dinner

I got the opportunity to collaborate with John Adams with JAG Architecture on this table set for a custom space and it has been a great project to work on. The initial challenge was to have a table that could seat 6 and allow for a way out in the middle, all fitting within the existing bench configuration. After a few different concepts, we came up with a small and larger table with leafs that would protect the dining table from the elements in cocktail position, and fold down with room for a 6 people.

In order to provide upper and lower support for the table, John and I came up with a swinging arm. When in cocktail position, the two arms would sit over one of the existing legs and on the underside of the table, and when in dinner position swing out for support.

We came up with a pear shape for the large table, with one straight edge to allow for hinging. The shape has a rounded 90 degree angle allowing two people to sit on each side of that angle.


On the small table, in order to provide leg room as the table depth is small to fit the space, the structural post was set to the back. This made for a unique base stand, so I made a full scale mock-up to make sure the stability was right.

The tables will be outside in direct exposure, so John chose stainless steel for the bases. He’s had too many powder coating let downs to choose anythng else for exterior.

The tops are made out of Ipe to match the bench. This stuff is extremely dense and it’s definitely not the easiest to work with. At the time, I thought it would be easiest to join everything at once, but thinking back smaller pieces are much easier to clamp down and would think about going that route in the future, at least with some of the heavy hardwoods like Ipe.

The supports for the underside of the table need to be flush to allow the swinging arm to nest tightly against the bottom of the table top. Therefore, I made a routing jig for the supports out of mdf to ensure a tight fit of the leg supports and the routing went smoothly.

I have to say this part of the process stressed me out a bit. I put a lot of time in to making the tops and getting the shapes just right. So when it came time to route out the invisible Soss hinges, I was a little on edge. The thickness I was cutting into is only 1″…its going in to end grain…and the inside edge that gets routed leaves less than 1/8″ of wood. Anyhow, I was able to get all of them in for a really nice clean look and I’m really happy with the look. I had a couple hiccups but the end product is clean.

All the pieces are pretty much put together and I’m just about ready to put it together. Time to oil up the tops, install the hinges and stops, polish the stainless and put it all together.

Haha, I just read that last line  I wrote 4 days ago and I can tell I didn’t anticipate things taking 3-4 more days. I still had to work out some small things and that did not happen quickly. That included tabs for the feet, stops for the swinging arm, and overall adjustments to get everything to work just right. Here are some shots of the nearly complete piece. Its waiting for a couple last minute adjustments and polishing but nothing too noticeably different than what you see here.

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New addition to the Progress Collection

Progress in South Park has just added a few of my pieces to their collection. If you haven’t been to Progress, check it out. They’re a cool modern home and gift shop in the recently renovated Burlingame garage. And if you’re not doing anything this Saturday afternoon, South Park is having their quarterly walkabout, a cool neighborhood gathering with food, drinks and cool stuff.

 

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First official store shipment

I’m excited to send off my first table to Silo in Sonoma, California. They are a new store opening on October 1 so if you ‘re in the neighborhood check out the store and the floaster, my first piece for sale in a retail store.

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Zig-Zag stoaway

The zig-zag is a recent custom piece I designed to be used outside for storage, stool and occasional seating. The piece is made of Mangaris, part of the mahogany family, chosen because it will hold up well to the elements on the beach in La Jolla.

I wanted to have a linear detail in the panels so the boards were biscuited and glued together with an 1/8″ detail on the sides of each board.

Boards are glued, cut and ready for assemby

Here is a look at the inside of the finished box. I was originally going to have the door slide but opted for a piano hinge due to the weight of the wood.

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Appearance on California Home+Design

I’m really excited to find that the Fingerprint table found its way into this months issue of California Home + Design

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Roughen it

This was more of a carpentry project than anything else. BoConcept wanted something a little rougher looking to contrast their clean furniture for a display at Fashion Valley. So we came up with this idea.

I made the frame much like you would a wall to ensure it would hold the weight of the front wood detail. Framed out of 2×6 and spaced to accompany a niche for the flat screen.

The slats are made up of basic 1x and 2x from Home Depot. To give it a nice color variation, I stained and painted them.

The display is outside so for a durable and cost effective backside/door, I used cedar fencing. I was a little sad to see the display leave my shop because the cedar smells so good.

Here is a final shot in the mall.



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Pinstripe Bike Shelf

I recently got a request to design a bike shelf. I really like the concept of displaying the bike like you would a piece of art and I wanted to ultimately come up with a design that would be as minimal in appearance as possible while still doing its job to hold up the weight of a bike.

I wanted to make the bike look like it was virtually floating on the wall. So I decided to design the piece so that the top bar sits down inside the shelf at a depth that hides the bar altogether.

I don’t actually own a bike so getting the dimensions just right was a little challenging but the owner Mike was super cool about getting me all the right dimensions so we were able to get it right. I drew a scaled version of the profile to make sure I liked the look of everything. I wanted the pinstripe detail to look just right and I ended up going with 1/2″ solid walnut with 1/8″ birch ply.

I forgot to shoot a pic of the lamination, I think I had 10 clamps on this little piece sandwiched between two pieces of laminate countertop.

I relieved the backside for the bracket as well as the front niche with a 1″ router bit. It’s a small piece so I had to make a bite-sized template for the router. Once this was all finished, I welded the bracket out of 3/4″ tube steel and 2″ x 1/8″ thick steel plate and I tested it on a wall in my house with about 70 pounds. The ultimate test was done by Mike at its new home.

Now available for purchase for $300 at my etsy shop.

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Belomo Sideboard

The Belomo sideboard is a custom piece I recently finished. After seeing some of the cool mid-centuryesque toys that the owner collected, I decided to go with something that integrates a display of these pieces. Not noticeable in this pic but in others below, this piece integrates a second small cube which was designed to hide an ac box and is built to float above the floor at the same height as the sideboard.

I wanted this piece to be solid wood and after looking for something light and clear, I came upon poplar that didn’t have the typical green tint you see frequently. After biscuiting the pieces and a lot of sanding, I had the width I needed to make the sideboard.

 A couple smaller details I added to the design was steel plate shelves and a 1/4″ reveal at the top and bottom of the piece to accent the three doors. Once all that was routed, I biscuited and glued the box together.

I wanted to keep the four front panels/door nice and simple, but add a little detail with the groove that I routed 1/8″ deep. I was able to use two saw guides as a guide for the router and it worked out really nice.

Here is a shot of the interior with the steel shelves and blum hinges ready for doors to be installed.

The next step, which showed to be pretty time consuming, was building the boxes for the niche and installing them in the cabinet. I wanted the box to be framed out within the door so I routed out 7/8″ in the outside frame, leaving 1/4″ material to frame the box. Installing these boxes to get the reveal just right was a treat, but well worth it. After all was installed, I finished it off with 5/8″ steel rod legs and a stained white on the top and edges to accent the natural oiled poplar finish of the doors and interior.

This picture shows the two piece together, the floating one afar used as a display but also to hide an ac box that wanted to be concealed.

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Featured on California Home + Design

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Thrillist


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Upgrades to remote storage

Aliright, I’ve reworked this piece 7 or 8 times now and I finally like the overall look and function. I’ve added a nice neoprene sheeting for the backing that is anti-slip and really nice to work with. For materials, I used maple for wood and for the interior, I have steel sheet metal with a circle knockout that the remotes magnetically attach to. One other detail that I’m glad to have found nice solution for is the magnetic door, and I found just the right magnets to hold the door closed.

I’ve been using one of the prior versions for a week or so now in my living room and I really like it. It’s great to have a place for everything and also add a little wood detail to the sofa.

 

 

 

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DIY Firescreen

When I first moved into my house, the two fireplaces had that ugly mesh fireplace screen, rusted and dirty. I demoed the one fireplace completely but the other stayed so I decided to make a really simple glass screen. This is probably the easiest DIY you can find.

I made a quick stop to a local glass shop for a sheet of 3/8″ tempered glass with polished edges. This was a little while ago but I believe it was around $40. I then stopped by the metal shop and picked up some 2″ x 2″ aluminum L for around $10. I then glued them together with construction adhesive and clamped them to dry for a day. I added little felt pads on the bottom for easy moving around to clean.

We don’t really use this fireplace outside of lighting candles on occasion but in case we did I left a 2″ gap around the outside edge to allow for heat to escape, but you can also bring the glass out from the opening to allow for additional heat to escape.

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Armadilla!!! hide the remote!

The Armadilla is something I’ve been thinking about for some time. I don’t like to have things out…besides the necessities. In the kitchen, bathroom, living room, any room, I like it when things are stored away, out of sight. The remote controls have always bugged. There isn’t a good place for them, so they usually sit on the sofa or table. When you have one for the tv, for the dvd player, for cable, etc, 3-4 add up really quick with no place to put them. Which got me thinking about the Saddler.

I decided on making the piece out of slats backed by black canvas. Initially, I had larger, heavier slats on the backside, and lighter slats on the side that would store the remotes. I made the storage unit section out of tube steel. It was scrap and fit my original drawing dimensions so I gave it a shot.

Once the pieces were made, I put the two together with additional canvas strapping to see what it looked like.

The above image actually shows the second round, in which I changed out the larger slats on the one side and made them all 1/4″. I like the uniformity and the weight distribution still works. What I didn’t like is the box, it didn’t flow and looked out of place.

To give it a more flowing, organic look, I made the frame of the next verision more crescent shaped. I then added metal backing to see how the remotes would work on magnets as attachments to the inside of the box.

After a few more modifications and finally making an entirely new piece, I have come up with my most recent version. The exterior slats are 1/4″ ipe that I have recycled from deck scraps.

I added magnetic closers at the bottom for an easy open and close of the piece. I also added an anti-slip sheeting on the backside of the slats that keeps it firmly in place and holds the weight when remotes are inside.

The body is also made of ipe and is attached by a piece of sheet metal which allows the remotes to magnetically attach to the piece. I am test driving the first usable version out so I’m sure I’ll have some additional changes before I’m done. Below is an updated version with maples slats and a steel plate detail with 3/8″ round holes.


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Platform bed – George Nelson inspired

I recently got the opportunity to work on a bed for friend of mine. After going through a few different design ideas, we came up with a bed whose frame and legs derives from the George Nelson case study bed. I really love this design and it was fun trying to figure out the best way to build the slim line platform.

These types of designs are funny because they look so simple but it definitely took some time to figure out how to make it work. In order to make it look like 1 1/2″ board holds the weight of the bed from end to end, the structure beneath took some planning. I decided on having two cross braces and one center brace overlap and have the intersections sit on small adjustable legs that you can’t see from the sides.

The exposed sides are solid maple that is then laminated to 1 x doug fir below. The legs are made from 1/4″ steel rod and plate to model after the simplicity of the hairpin.

In order to properly carry the weight through the middle of the bed, I have a 2×6 that runs from front to back, which is sandwiched between (2) 2×6 running perpendicular to carry the weight at the sides. Both boards are 3/4″ relieved at the joint.

What I found kind of interesting in the case study design, is they have fixed hairpin legs at the intersection of these supports. Working in a lot of homes with floors that go up and down, I thought the only good solution to not have a bed that could potentially teeter toter  is adjustable feet, which I made out of 8″ bolts and flat stock.

A few additional modifications to the original design will be the hideaway drawer which will be installed on the side of the bed farthest from the rooms entry so as to not affect the transparency and lightness created without anything but legs underneath the bed. I’m also adding a headboard. Originally I was going to make a three panelled and upholstered piece but my buddy wanted to mix in some Nakashima influence so we added a  live edge Koa plank instead. Here is the final piece.


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m i c k l i s h…

www.micklish.com

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Bent plywood

I thought this was a really simple and to the point tutorial on making bent ply wood legs. It would be cool to add the jig setup construction to the tutorial so you can get the whole picture, start to finish.

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Air

I really like the simple shape of the cube, so I wanted to make the piece as bare bones as possible. The framework is welded from 1/2 steel rod. Its definitely one of those pieces that looks simple but takes some time to ensure you come out with a sharp 90 at every angle.

I chose two separate sizes to add some contrast, both still large enough to make for a good usable area but small enough to keep a lower profile at 20″ and 16″ tall. I chose a walnut top consisting of a group of staggered 3/4″ pieces I ripped and planed with a layout that looks as if the top is floating over the cube. I welded 3/4″ clips to the top to hold the piece in place at 4 points. It looks really delicate but it is actually quite strong, adding a 3/4″ strong back to the bottom, running perpendicular to the walnut pieces for additional support.

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Hangman

I thought the end game of Hangman would make a good coat/hat rack, so I wanted to give it a try.  I welded the base and post first, made of 1″ tube steel and 3/8″ 12″x base that makes for a great weight. The man is made of 1/8″x1″ flat strap and a 6″ diameter circle.

I had to detail my welds to get a nice smooth look in all areas.  I may add some additional hanging somehow but I really like the simplicity of the figure. For a good contrast I went with white and yellow.

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Floasta

I’ve been working with more steel lately and this is a deviation of the Coaster Table I have made in redwood and maple. I wanted to further the idea of floating coasters with a very minimal base. This table is made of 18 1/8″ 6″x6″ steel plates, welded together.

To really minimize the legs but not sacrifice strength, I chose 1/2″ tube steel in a 90 degree z  pattern. The table is surprisingly sturdy and I’m happy with the first pass at this design. Part of me wants to add some thing wood squares to the top to accent the piece, but I also like the sleakness of just the steel.

After detailing my welds and priming, I decided to add a walnut detail to the top. The wood is solid 1/2″ walnut cut in to 5 1/2″ squares. I think it softens up the raw metal look a bit.

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Cubism for BoConcept

My latest project is a few different pieces I have designed for an attention grabbing display at the Santa Monica mall. The idea is to display a few of BoConcept’s iconic chairs in clear acrylic cubes that will be lit up from below. Since walnut is one of their main wood choices, I integrated it into the bases and catalog stand.

I built the frames out of 1×6 pine and created a light bay at the top that I painted white for maximum brightness. The boxes are 4′x4′ and the cube on top will also be 4′x4′x4′.

I then wrapped the boxes in 3/4 walnut ply. Walnut is definitely one of my favorite woods. If it was more affordable I think I would do the majority of my work in walnut. To promote the brand I have included a catalog stand that is simple and clean with matching walnut detail. I welded the base using 1/2″ steel plate, beefy so it provides a good support for the stack of catalogs above.

There was no power source when I installed the piece so it doesn’t show the illuminating bottom. Otherwise, I think they came together nicely and once they put the other chair in the cube I think it will be an attention grabbing display for BoConcept.

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Smooth wall putty coat

Smooth walls to me is a must for a clean modern look. Most homes these days are either spray textured or skip troweled, but my preference has always been for smooth walls. The alternatives are cheaper and easier to accomplish, but I think smooth is a worth while investment.

I recently putty coated a few rooms in my house so I thought I would share some quick tips. This is definitely a skill that comes with practice, but it can still be achieved with less experience, you will just have to clean and sand a lot more to get the right effect.

First thing to do is get two types of mud if you are just going over existing textured walls, all purpose mud and topping. Use all purpose on the first and possibly second coat, and topping on the next coat (its lighter and easier to sand). Use two buckets for the job, one for water and one for the mud. Mix the mud fairly light, with consistency of pudding (mud comes pre-mixed but needs to be thinned for putty coating. Work an area, putting mud on a 5′x 5′ section or greater (some like to roll on the mud). Then come back over it with your knife to smooth it out, working from one end to the other, lifing the knife just slightly on one side to keep the lines to a minimum. You just want to leave a 1/16″ + layer of mud on the wall and the first coat is gonna have bumps. If your first coat is fairly smooth, you can switch to the topping for the 2nd and final, but if your new, you may have to sand between coats or possibly do a second coat of all purpose. Ultimately you can sand any mistakes out but make sure you put a good flood light on it before paint to ensure you have a majority of the imperfections cleaned up, as different lighting and day light will show problem areas.

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Fingerprint

This is a side table/coffee table (2-3) that I have been working on.  I got the inspiration from a finger print and thought it would make a cool looking table. I routed out the design by hand and the subtle imperfections of the human hand give it a very similar look to that of a finger print. I used a radius bit to give it a soft carved look.

The first couple rounds of the top I have done in a  smooth birch ply, but I think I will move to the final being in two woods: a solid maple and another in birch ply with a dark wood veneer. Below is a mock up of the legs in wood, but I am going to weld a few other designs in steel and see what looks best.

After playing with a few different plys, I have decided to go with a maple and walnut ply for a subtle and stark contrast. For legs, I welded 3/8″ thick steel rod to plate at 5 degrees. Being one of my first welding projects, this was fun, but once I set a jig up it wasn’t too bad. Good times with the mig welder.

I finished the tops with 3 coats of matte polyurethane.

The finish height is 20″. They make nice side tables or with 2-3 they would work for a coffee table as well.

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