Very excited to be sharing the cover page of Lumens Holiday Gift Guide with some awesome designs.
Excited to be a part of the SD Maker crew at the Art San Diego show this year. If you’re in the neighborhood drop by Nov.7-10 in Balboa Park, it’s gonna be a great show.
My brother spotted the Butler in the newest issue of Details Magazine with Pharrell. Awesome surprise!
I just completed a fun project for a Carlsbad law firm. They just bought new offices and redesigned the interiors, so they wanted to add something special to their conference room to finish things off. Their request was for a solid white top with electrical and communication needs, so I came up with a few different designs to work from and we eventually narrowed it to one.
In order to provide power for up to 10 people for laptops, we decided to keep the table top clean and hide the outlets on the underside, eliminating messy cords that could busy up the table. In addition, I added a custom brass niche on the top that hides power, CAT 6 and HDMI for video conferencing needs.
I got started on the legs first, deciding to make them out of steel and sleeve them in walnut in order to provide a hidden chase for the electrical and communications wiring.
I made the frame out of 2″ tube steel. It’s probably a little on the heavy side, but at over 10′ long with a heavy electrical chase and a porcelain top I didn’t want to risk not having the proper support.
The electrical chase was made using a plug mold system. I wanted to provide an outlet to each person at the table so this flexible system allows you to move the outlets to whatever your specifications may be and keep it clean and minimal.
The chase in the leg was made 3/4″ x 1″, just enough room for the three cords. It was a tight fit :)
The top of the table is white porcelain. After doing a lot of research, I found 1/4″ slabs of porcelain. I really wanted a solid surface but not glass or acrylic as they tend to scratch easily. I finallly came upon 1/4″ porcelain that was available in a matte finish and I’m really happy with how it looks with everything. To finish the edges off, I used aluminum L that I painted matte white.
In order to conceal the electrical and communications in the top, I created a brushed brass band on top with a recessed box. The door to the niche has a gap large enough to allow cords to feed through them while in use, which really keeps everything clean and minimizes the sight of any electrical on the table top.
The table ended up weighing about 300 pounds, so with the help of 3 big delivery guys, we got it up a flight of stairs and safely in the new conference room. Great project, happy clients :)
Only 22 hours remain for our kickstarter project for The Butler. It’s the last chance to get The Butler at this limited kickstarter price so please be sure to check it out. Thanks again to everyone for all the support, its been a great experience.
With over 200 backers and 7 days left on kickstarter, the Butler is going strong. We have 77% of the project backed and just need a little more support to be successful. Check out the project and please share it on social media with your friends. We’re so close to making this happen and just need a little more help to reach our goal. Thanks to everyone for all the backing over the past three weeks!
I’m very excited to announce that the Butler is now on Kickstarter. The Butler has been very good to me over the past year. After making over 300 by hand, I am now taking the next step to get assistance from a local San Diego wood shop with CNC expertise. With a combination of CNC and handwork, they will be able to assist me in making a beautiful finished product in large quantities.
Please take a look at my kickstarter when you get a chance and share it on facebook and other social media platforms. Thanks for your support!
Happy to announce the high&tight is now available at the very rad Mixture in Little Italy, San Diego.
I dropped off a dining bench to my favorite clients turned family friends today. They wanted something to complement the dining table I made them a few months ago, so I designed this bench. I didn’t want to create something with too much detail that would stray away from the table, so I created something with few simple lines and I’m really happy with how it turned out.
I kept the back on the low side to give it as much of a low profile as possible while at the same time ensuring it was a comfortable fit. I ended up adding two inches from the original design but the comfort factor overruled the minute aesthetic change. The legs are 1″ matte black steel to match the Pegleg and I’m really happy with how it works in the space. It’s a big table at 10′ long and Andi was worried 10 chairs was gonna look like a board room, so having the bench to minimize the number of chairs really helped out in my opinion.
I just realized I never posted the final pics of the hight&tight. I’m very fortunate to have talented friends like Alyssa Lavine alyssalavinephotography.com to make my pieces look good. Currently the high&tight is available as a chair height stool but I hope to add a bar height version with foot rest in the next 3-4 months.
Dwell magazine has been an inspiration for me for many years now, so to be featured in their American Made edition this month alongside some other really talented American designer/makers is truly an honor.
This past week I had the privilege of working with talented photographer Alyssa Lavine. Here are a few of the shots she took of one of my newest pieces, the Pegleg coffee table.
The Pegleg coffee table is now available at my etsy shop:
I’ve been working on a stool for the past 9 months or so and I finally have a completed piece so I wanted to share a little of the development from initial drawings to finished piece.
Here is a pic of some of my sketches for the stool.
A cardboard model really helped me to visualize and scale the piece accordingly. I decided to choose 2″ x 1/4″ flat steel bar for the structure.
All welded up with 1/4″ steel supports below the seat. I really liked the look, but structurally it did not work. It pretty much pulled itself apart as the legs want to buckle under any kind of weight. On to my next challenge.
After a lot of head scratching and some different welding and structural attempts, I bent the back legs to 90 and added a 1x wood detail to the legs. It was significantly stronger, but still not there. The legs were still a little shaky and the back legs would kick out a little when you sat down. I then added two steel rods at diagonal from the two front legs up to the seat. This made the stool pretty stable, but I wasn’t sure I liked the supports and I still wanted it to be a little stronger. So the design sat for a while.
I recently took another crack at the design. I decided to make the first version of the stool chair height. After some thinking, I came up with the idea to tie the two opposing legs together with welded steel rod, which really strenthened the structure of the piece. I thickened up the wood legs to 6/4″ walnut and decided to shorten the steel leg section to add some contrast on the backside. I also moved the radius detail on the seat back 2″; it was a bit uncomfortable to sit on and now its out of the general seating area while still having the detail I like.
The finished stool sits at 19″ which is an average chair height.
The high&tight is now available at my etsy shop for $425. http://https://www.etsy.com/shop/micklish?ref=si_shop
I was recently interviewed by Space Magazine. I was under the impression that it wasn’t going to make the cut for the latest issue, so when I got the issue in the mail, I was really surprised. You never know what to expect, but I surely didn’t expect a 2 page spread. So cool…very honored to be among the many talented people on their pages.
Artwalk this year was great. It was really fun to talk with fellow modern design lovers. I just finished a prototype of my new stool and people seemed to really enjoy the design. I’m looking to have it ready for production in another week, two weeks max, and will be posting some better pics of it shortly. Thanks to all the cool people that dropped by and said hello.
I just found out that Micklish has won an A’ Design Award for the Butler and will be on exhibition at MOOD Museum of Design next month in Como, Italy. My fiance and I are going to Italy for our honeymoon in two months so we’ll just barely miss it.
I was looking back through my blog and realized I forgot to share a really fun interior design/furniture project I worked on last year for some very cool owners in Los Angeles. This project involved renovation of an adolescent treatment center in Los Angeles and I was able to bring on a friend of mine, Beachum Jones to help me design the space as well as make some of the functional pieces.
Here are a few pictures of the existing space. It felt like more of an office space than classroom, so there was plenty of room for improvement. The main objective of the renovation was to give the kids a fun and light space to learn that offers versatility for group meetings that also take place here.
After a couple plan revisions, we were able to find an economical solution that I think really changed the flow of the space and offers a fun, youthful learning environment. Below are a few pictures of one of the classrooms.
I designed and built the caster tables and back art wall. I wanted to design a desk that could easily move for different exercises and group meetings that they have in the classes. I found these casters that I loved, so I designed steel legs that completemented their aesthetic and contrasted the white steel with a durable solid beech top. High school kids are notorious for demo so hard wood was a must. The art wall was inspired by plaid and designed to allow the kids an interactive display for their art class, including red clips from Home Depot to attach their weekly paintings.
I also designed and built a storage solution for their reception area. We integrated metal lockers into the classroom design, so I thought it would be great to include them in the design to create this sideboard, whose outer shell is made out of the same beech hardwood as the desks.
I was unfortunately unable to get pics of the finished offices and reception, but at least the above shows a little taste of the before and after of this project.
I had to share this 60 minute piece on the founder of design firm IDEO. The concept of Design Thinking that he has created as a framework for IDEO is very inspiring. Great share from my friend Ashley that works at their Boston office.
I’m finally back on my blog :) This past month+ has been a rough one for my health but I’m hopefully on a road to recovery. A little while back I was commissioned to design and build a table for a nice lady in La Jolla. I was originally going to make a dining table sized version of my Air table, but it wasn’t as functional as we liked, so after some time drawing up different concepts, I came up with this new table design.
Once I figured out all the scaled measurements of the top and legs, I worked on the leg angle. This showed to be quite challenging and time consuming. You want to maximize leg room and not create a trip hazard. I finally came up with a compound angle that works well on two axis.
On to making a jig for the legs. The steel portion of the legs is solid 5/8″ flat bar, so I needed to make sure I would keep a true angle while welding.
Jigs made. I had to adjust the angle a bit to ensure it was equal on both axis. Ready to cut the steel and weld everything together
The other half of the legs are walnut. I wanted them to sleeve over the steel with equal dimension of walnut on each side, so I planed the walnut down to 5/8″ . I then drilled the holes for the hardware and glued and clamped them over night. After some sanding, they were all ready to do.
I wanted to add a detail to the top of the table that would complement the legs, so I chose a heave duty flush bolt. It screws through to the bottom of the table to hold the legs, and on the legs, it fastens the wood to the steel.
I made a trip to the hardwood store to find the best lookkng 6/4 walnut and after three places, I found the best pieces. After ripping, joining, gluing and clamping, the piece was ready to sand for a bit. I sand from 40 grit up to 400.
The next step was drilling the holes for the legs. This was a little stressful doing over the finished top, but the drill guide makes it go pretty smoothly. The flush botl detail on top definitely adds considerable time to the piece but it was well worth it.
Now for the fun part. I went with a tung oil for this piece called Waterlox and it worked great. The oil is a much more time consuming process than lacquer, but the richness of color you get from this oil is well worth the time. After 8 coats, I was able to achieve a great seal while still having the low sheen finish that I prefer..
Wood has a tendency to move, so I decided to add a steel support along the bottom to ensure the top wouldn’t move with weather.
Featured on the great online retail site Rypen this past week. They have a great selection of handcrafted works by some very cool US designers.
This is a great little video on some of the highlights of his career, very inspiring stuff.
I recently got a cool pic from a customer up north with a mickrib in their living room. Thanks for sharing!
I recently made a steam bender for a new stool design I’ve been working on. Its made of 6″ PVC pipe with dowel racks for bending multiple piece. Unfortunately, it doesn’t quite bend the wood as sharply as I’d hoped so I’ve decided to change the material choice for the structural support of the stool to steel.
Hopefully I will have some pics to share of the new design in the next couple weeks.
I’m very excited to be a part of this years Art San Diego 2012 ‘Spotlight Contemporary Furniture Designers’ section. If you are free September 6-9, come down to Balboa Park and check out some of the cool pieces on display.
The Belomo sideboard will be on display at the event.
I’m really excited to be a part of the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego’s Summer Soiree. The ‘air’ table will be up for auction at the event.
It seems like at least once a week I can’t find my keys, or my wallet, or …, so I decided to make something in an attempt to resolve this little predicament. I’ve always disliked having all my on the go items just laying around, so having a wall mounted piece keeps things up, away and organized.
The Butler is made of solid walnut and several layers of baltic birch.
When not in use, the walnut slides closed and hides the charging wire within.
The backside of the walnut is routed out for the charging cord and a pocket is routed out of the backside to allow for the additional charging cord and extension cord head so that the piece can be mounted up high on the a wall possibly.
I’ve been working on the mickRib for sometime now. It’s crazy how much time you can put in to something so small and simple looking. I originally got the idea for this lamp from this circular shape I saw that had some random curves in its shape. After doodling for a couple months I decided on the scale and base and worked on my first template.
It took me some time to decide how to make the piece. I went back and forth between potentially bending, joining at the curves, and possibly making the interior all one solid piece. After a couple different trials, I eventually decided to make it with ply that was joined together but with small gaps between each piece to let the light out and accent the light in an interesting way.
Making identical replicas is a little tricky when there are so many curves in such a tight area with such thin material. My first attempts on the router table were a little sketchy with the bit wanting to grab the piece at certain points. After a few runs, I was able to make an initial mockup, but decided it would be best to find a better,safer way to make the next round. This is a pic of my dads hand. I told him about my experience so he came over to experience the sketchiness.
This is the setup I built to keep the routing a lot simpler and safer and it works great. I cut the ribs out, leaving an 1/8″ of meat, attach the piece to the 3/4″ template and place it in this jig.
The next challenge was to get the lighting fixture into the neck as clean and simple as possible. I decided to run it up the 1/4″ gap in the neck and relieve a small section on two opposing rib pieces for the head of the fixture.
Some finishing touches to get the bulb and fixturing just right and she’s ready for a photo shoot.
I was at the jeweler a few months back looking at rings. I’m pretty good at picking out stuff for Christina, but rings seem a little more difficult to pin down.
I get to pick out everything for our house so I kinda felt like this should really be something Christina should decide upon. That got me thinking about the wood ring, a sort of pre-engagement ring so I can still have the surprise of a ring but also let her decide the real engagement ring.
Chewbacca worked day and night on this little thing. He’s still a puppy but he’s got a good work ethic.
The ring is made of laminated maple and walnut with an engraved diamond on top. About 8 coats of oil and it was ready for the test.
I made a couple other rings in the process of trying to find what would look best with the diamond, so I gave those to her first as an anniversary present and to throw her off in case she had figured it out already
Maple and Walnut
She was surprised!!
I recently got to mix things up a bit and work with some concrete. I had a few different designs in steel and concrete and ultimately this simple cube was chosen as an addition for backyard entertaining.
They really like wood burning fires, so I thought it would be interesting to make a linear wood burning firepit. The linear trend seems to be pretty popular these days, but I haven’t seen too much in the way of wood burning. I formed the pit and created a nice rectangular interior that was big enough for logs but still kept things fairly tight and linear.
They decided to go with a light brown concrete to match the color of the existing walks. Once the concrete was set, I removed the forms and steel trowelled the faces for a nice smooth finish.
In order to achieve the linear fire with logs, I wanted to add a stand that would make things easy to get the logs situated. I came up with this triangular stainless design and it seems to hold the pieces up nicely while also adding an interesting detail.
I also added a stainless steel top for the winter months. I put a drain in the bottom as well but figured it would be nice to to have it covered and not have to worry about it for the rainy months.
The pin-up is an idea I got from the desk top pin screen. I thought it would be nice to have a versatile hanging option where you could fit things of different sizes and when not in use, the pins could recess into the wall and go away.
I started out with a smaller mockup version to see how the pins would work. Once I had a scaled piece, I had an easier time trying to figure out how the pins were going to move freely in and out.
The first challenge came with trying to find the right size/type of dowels and forstner drill bit that would give enough room for movement but the least amount of play when extended out completely. I ended up with 1/2″ birch dowels and I attached washers to the ends to act as a stop.
After playing with a few different ideas on moving the dowels in and out, I decided to have a movable back board stop that is attached to one of dowel at each side. When the pins are pushed in, you just pull the two side pins and the pins come back out to full extension. I added rollers to the bottom of the back board stop so that it glides easily in and out.
The other challenge was the recessed feature. Walls with drywall or plaster are usually 4″ – 4 1/4″ deep and the stud bays are typically 14 1/2″ wide with most studs being installed 16″ on center. With these constraints in mind, I wanted to maximize the length of the pins while still having them become nearly flush when pushed in.
After some trial and error, I ended up with a thicker face plate of solid walnut and a 4″ dowel that provides a good hanging area for a lot of different things. I really like the recessed part of this piece, but I know for many cutting drywall or plaster is not an option. So I think I’ll end up making another surface mounted option. I want to try out a couple more things before I add this to the shop but it’s working good in the guest bedroom.
I got the opportunity to collaborate with John Adams with JAG Architecture on this table set for a custom space and it has been a great project to work on. The initial challenge was to have a table that could seat 6 and allow for a way out in the middle, all fitting within the existing bench configuration. After a few different concepts, we came up with a small and larger table with leafs that would protect the dining table from the elements in cocktail position, and fold down with room for a 6 people.
In order to provide upper and lower support for the table, John and I came up with a swinging arm. When in cocktail position, the two arms would sit over one of the existing legs and on the underside of the table, and when in dinner position swing out for support.
We came up with a pear shape for the large table, with one straight edge to allow for hinging. The shape has a rounded 90 degree angle allowing two people to sit on each side of that angle.
On the small table, in order to provide leg room as the table depth is small to fit the space, the structural post was set to the back. This made for a unique base stand, so I made a full scale mock-up to make sure the stability was right.
The tables will be outside in direct exposure, so John chose stainless steel for the bases. He’s had too many powder coating let downs to choose anythng else for exterior.
The tops are made out of Ipe to match the bench. This stuff is extremely dense and it’s definitely not the easiest to work with. At the time, I thought it would be easiest to join everything at once, but thinking back smaller pieces are much easier to clamp down and would think about going that route in the future, at least with some of the heavy hardwoods like Ipe.
The supports for the underside of the table need to be flush to allow the swinging arm to nest tightly against the bottom of the table top. Therefore, I made a routing jig for the supports out of mdf to ensure a tight fit of the leg supports and the routing went smoothly.
I have to say this part of the process stressed me out a bit. I put a lot of time in to making the tops and getting the shapes just right. So when it came time to route out the invisible Soss hinges, I was a little on edge. The thickness I was cutting into is only 1″…its going in to end grain…and the inside edge that gets routed leaves less than 1/8″ of wood. Anyhow, I was able to get all of them in for a really nice clean look and I’m really happy with the look. I had a couple hiccups but the end product is clean.
All the pieces are pretty much put together and I’m just about ready to put it together. Time to oil up the tops, install the hinges and stops, polish the stainless and put it all together.
Haha, I just read that last line I wrote 4 days ago and I can tell I didn’t anticipate things taking 3-4 more days. I still had to work out some small things and that did not happen quickly. That included tabs for the feet, stops for the swinging arm, and overall adjustments to get everything to work just right. Here are some shots of the nearly complete piece. Its waiting for a couple last minute adjustments and polishing but nothing too noticeably different than what you see here.
Progress in South Park has just added a few of my pieces to their collection. If you haven’t been to Progress, check it out. They’re a cool modern home and gift shop in the recently renovated Burlingame garage. And if you’re not doing anything this Saturday afternoon, South Park is having their quarterly walkabout, a cool neighborhood gathering with food, drinks and cool stuff.
I’m excited to send off my first table to Silo in Sonoma, California. They are a new store opening on October 1 so if you ‘re in the neighborhood check out the store and the floaster, my first piece for sale in a retail store.
The zig-zag is a recent custom piece I designed to be used outside for storage, stool and occasional seating. The piece is made of Mangaris, part of the mahogany family, chosen because it will hold up well to the elements on the beach in La Jolla.
I wanted to have a linear detail in the panels so the boards were biscuited and glued together with an 1/8″ detail on the sides of each board.
Boards are glued, cut and ready for assemby
I’m really excited to find that the Fingerprint table found its way into this months issue of California Home + Design
This was more of a carpentry project than anything else. BoConcept wanted something a little rougher looking to contrast their clean furniture for a display at Fashion Valley. So we came up with this idea.
I made the frame much like you would a wall to ensure it would hold the weight of the front wood detail. Framed out of 2×6 and spaced to accompany a niche for the flat screen.
The slats are made up of basic 1x and 2x from Home Depot. To give it a nice color variation, I stained and painted them.
The display is outside so for a durable and cost effective backside/door, I used cedar fencing. I was a little sad to see the display leave my shop because the cedar smells so good.
Here is a final shot in the mall.
I recently got a request to design a bike shelf. I really like the concept of displaying the bike like you would a piece of art and I wanted to ultimately come up with a design that would be as minimal in appearance as possible while still doing its job to hold up the weight of a bike.
I wanted to make the bike look like it was virtually floating on the wall. So I decided to design the piece so that the top bar sits down inside the shelf at a depth that hides the bar altogether.
I don’t actually own a bike so getting the dimensions just right was a little challenging but the owner Mike was super cool about getting me all the right dimensions so we were able to get it right. I drew a scaled version of the profile to make sure I liked the look of everything. I wanted the pinstripe detail to look just right and I ended up going with 1/2″ solid walnut with 1/8″ birch ply.
I forgot to shoot a pic of the lamination, I think I had 10 clamps on this little piece sandwiched between two pieces of laminate countertop.
I relieved the backside for the bracket as well as the front niche with a 1″ router bit. It’s a small piece so I had to make a bite-sized template for the router. Once this was all finished, I welded the bracket out of 3/4″ tube steel and 2″ x 1/8″ thick steel plate and I tested it on a wall in my house with about 70 pounds. The ultimate test was done by Mike at its new home.
Now available for purchase for $300 at my etsy shop.
The Belomo sideboard is a custom piece I recently finished. After seeing some of the cool mid-centuryesque toys that the owner collected, I decided to go with something that integrates a display of these pieces. Not noticeable in this pic but in others below, this piece integrates a second small cube which was designed to hide an ac box and is built to float above the floor at the same height as the sideboard.
I wanted this piece to be solid wood and after looking for something light and clear, I came upon poplar that didn’t have the typical green tint you see frequently. After biscuiting the pieces and a lot of sanding, I had the width I needed to make the sideboard.
A couple smaller details I added to the design was steel plate shelves and a 1/4″ reveal at the top and bottom of the piece to accent the three doors. Once all that was routed, I biscuited and glued the box together.
I wanted to keep the four front panels/door nice and simple, but add a little detail with the groove that I routed 1/8″ deep. I was able to use two saw guides as a guide for the router and it worked out really nice.
Here is a shot of the interior with the steel shelves and blum hinges ready for doors to be installed.
The next step, which showed to be pretty time consuming, was building the boxes for the niche and installing them in the cabinet. I wanted the box to be framed out within the door so I routed out 7/8″ in the outside frame, leaving 1/4″ material to frame the box. Installing these boxes to get the reveal just right was a treat, but well worth it. After all was installed, I finished it off with 5/8″ steel rod legs and a stained white on the top and edges to accent the natural oiled poplar finish of the doors and interior.
Aliright, I’ve reworked this piece 7 or 8 times now and I finally like the overall look and function. I’ve added a nice neoprene sheeting for the backing that is anti-slip and really nice to work with. For materials, I used maple for wood and for the interior, I have steel sheet metal with a circle knockout that the remotes magnetically attach to. One other detail that I’m glad to have found nice solution for is the magnetic door, and I found just the right magnets to hold the door closed.
When I first moved into my house, the two fireplaces had that ugly mesh fireplace screen, rusted and dirty. I demoed the one fireplace completely but the other stayed so I decided to make a really simple glass screen. This is probably the easiest DIY you can find.
I made a quick stop to a local glass shop for a sheet of 3/8″ tempered glass with polished edges. This was a little while ago but I believe it was around $40. I then stopped by the metal shop and picked up some 2″ x 2″ aluminum L for around $10. I then glued them together with construction adhesive and clamped them to dry for a day. I added little felt pads on the bottom for easy moving around to clean.
We don’t really use this fireplace outside of lighting candles on occasion but in case we did I left a 2″ gap around the outside edge to allow for heat to escape, but you can also bring the glass out from the opening to allow for additional heat to escape.